OMG…..
We knew that after Xilitla, a little village in the mountains, our previous stop, the road should go down.
Before, to reach Tamasopo, we had some serious overheating breaks trouble. But nothing could prepare us for this.
Instead of going down, leaving Xilitla to Bernal, we kept going up and up. And when you go up, at one point, you have to go down!
And boy, did we go up. We had to cross a mountain pass in the “Serra Gorda” rising over 2500 meters (8200ft)…..
And then we went down, and down, and down….
After every mountaintop we hoped this was the last one, but for many miles we kept going down!
We had to stop various times to give our brakes a brake, so they would overheat. The rig weighs about 8000kg and because that weight pushes the rv down and I didn´t want the rpm go over 3000, braking on the motor, I needed to use the brakes a lot to keep it within limits.
By the time the roads became flat, from a distance we could already see our next stop.
Bernal
We choose to make a quick stop over for one night in Bernal, another Pueblo Magico.
Bernal surprised us. We didn´t expect a lot about it because Bernal is mainly known by mountain climbing. But the town center is very pleasant and we realized, even after seeing so many typical (what is typical) Mexican villages, that Bernal really breaths the Mexican culture you expect to see by its architecture.
Finding a place to park was easy, the main road is wide and large parking spots are on both sides. Finding a place to overnight park wasn´t that easy. The rest of the streets are very narrow and no big parking lot is available.
So we asked permission to overnight on the main road. A 2 minute walk to the town center.
After a long and exhausting drive, we didn´t do much in Bernal. Walked the town, had some tacos, made some pictures and went to bed early.
Sleeping wasn´t very comfortable as we were parked on the main street where every 24/7 cars, truck and touring cars pass through. It was a very noisy night.
One thing is you can´t miss when you are in Bernal. Where ever you walk, your eyes are drawn to this big rock just outside Bernal….
La Peña De Bernal
La Peña de Bernal, or the peak of Bernal is the 10th largest monolith in the world.
A monolith is a geological feature consisting of a single massive rock.
La peña is 433 m (1,421 ft) tall and a walhalla for rock climbers. But as we are no climbers, we decided to move on the next day.
Leaving Bernal, we saw a huge sign of a “viña” or winery. Not something we would turn our head for normally, there are many viñas in Mexico.
But the name caught our attention…
Viñas Freixenet
You must know that we live in Spain 60 miles south of Barcelona. Being so close to one of the most beautiful cities in the world in my opinion, we go there often.
Right in the middle, between Barcelona and our house, there is one of the most famous wineries of the region. Freixenet.
You can’t miss it when you drive to Barcelona.
So our surprise was huge when we saw a billboard size sign saying Viña Freixenet. We didn´t know that this typical Catalan winery had wine yards in Mexico.
We had to take a detour to a village 20 minutes outside of Bernal, Ezequiel Montes, where Freixenet has its winery.
When we told them we were from the region where Freixenet is originally from, they invited us on a tour that was about to start.
The tour took us 18 meters underground to the wine cellar. Man made by bricks with a beautiful half round brick roof keeps the temperature on a steady 15 to 18 degrees Celsius. Thousands of barrels and crates filled with wine and bottles are aging in the cellar.
We were explained how their winemaking process is and their history. After the tour we were offered a delicious sparkling wine to taste in the bar/shop where we were taught some more wine secrets by the enthusiastic bar man.
Funny how we live so close for 20 years to Freixenet, and end up getting to know the company for real in Mexico…..
Tequisquiapan
After the tour we continued our journey to a village I still can´t pronounce Tequisquiapan (Tè-kis-kia-pan). Again a pueblo magico. Without knowing where to go and overnight, we set the GPS to the town square.
Driving into town, closing in on the town square, a man on a bicycle started to ride next to us and drawing our attention. I opened my window and asked him what he wanted.
Are you planning to drive this thing into the center? he asked.
Well yes sir!
That is what we always do when we don’t have a place to overnight. Drive up to the town square, ask a police officer or someone from town hall where we can park where its allowed and safe.
He shaked his head and said that I would get into trouble, the streets are to small and you are too high.
He said follow me I know a place to park this at only 5 minutes walk from the city center.
We followed the man on his bike that took us to a terrain just outside the city center.
There was indeed lots of space, but also a bit desolated, so we had our doubts if it was a safe spot.
Viña TX
Right opposite the terrain was a big wall with big closed door. On the wall it said Viña TX (TX winery).
We banged on the door and a man opened. We asked him if it was a safe place to park, and he told us that sometimes people camp on his grounds.
We went in and saw a very cute little family owned wine yard with a nice lot of grass in front of the vineyard. This was great. Idyllic and safe. We made a deal with the owner to stay there for 2 nights.
The owner and his family turned out to be very nice people, and passionate about making good wine.
He told us about his grapes, showed us the “Cava” or wine cellar and let us taste a few bottles of his best wine accompanied with fine cheeses.
His wines were spectacular and we learned that he only produces 3000 bottles per year. My advice is when you are in the neighborhood, pass by Viña TX and when you are lucky you will be able to buy a few bottles.
But as they only produce 3000, it is possible that they are sold out. But believe me when I say it’s worth driving an extra few miles because his wine is phenomenal! And even when they are sold out, you can always book a short tour that is well worth while the few extra miles.
Town Center
The name TX started to make sense a little later when we went to the town center next day. Many local businesses had the letters TX in their name. Butcher TX, TX Fashion, TX Farmacy…
When I first saw the TX in the name of the winery, I thought that it had to do with Texas. Maybe the man had lived there. But seeing it all over town, I understood that it had to be for another reason.
It all became clear when we arrived at the town square. Like in all the Pueblos Magicos, on the town square, big colorful letters with the town’s name are placed.
It turn out that even the people in town have problems with the pronunciation of Tequisquiapan, because the colorful letters didn´t state Tequisquiapan, but merely Tequis.
In Spanish “equis” is how you call the X…..
T-Equis or TX!
So Viña TX wasn´t Viña Texas or so, but Viña Tequis or Viña Tequisquiapan.
It all made sense now.
WE also now understood why the man on the bike was our saviour.
The little streets to the town center would have been a drag to reverse as they are all too small to turn the rv and because the most of the town center is car free, all those little streets to the center are dead ends.
Thank you Sir!
But because they are all car free, it´s a very pleasant center to visit. With lots of shops and fine restaurants.
Our Experience
Bernal is a nice village but it’s not really high on our list, unless you are there for climbing. Its worth a short visit, but not really for a longer stay.
The Cava or wine cellar of Freixenet is impressive, but Viña TX stole our heart.
We had 2 very pleasant and relaxing days staying at Viña TX counting the complete family as our new friends here in Mexico.
Next stop Queretaro